Care Instructions for Your Musa, Banana Plant

Musa, also known as a banana tree plant or Musa Tropicana, comes from the rainforests of South-East Asia and Australia and has been cultivated since the 6th century, spreading to tropical regions and greenhouses worldwide. Recent cultivars include the Bronana which is our signature Musa, with its large, white-striped variegated leaves and a stem that develops vibrant pink edges as it matures, and the Pink nono, with leaves variegated with pink stripes like the name suggests. 

These herbaceous perennials with their flamboyant paddle-shaped leaves require moderate hands-on care and are ideal for experienced tropical plant enthusiasts. With the right care, these plants can produce edible fruit in 1.5 - 2 years and in the meantime, act as a natural banana scented air freshener.

Fun fact: Although they can grow to tree-like heights, Musa have a leaf stalk (also called a false trunk or stem) and not a trunk holding up their leaves and fruit, making them more of a herb. 

If you’re looking for instructions on how to take care of your Musa and produce home-grown snacks, we’re ready to help! This guide will walk you through caring for your Musa Banana Plant, including watering, sunlight, and diagnosing common issues. 

Banana trees originated in the tropical rainforests of Southeast Asia, including India, the Philippines and New Guinea, as well as Australia. Horticulturalists and traders have taken Musa and read it throughout the world including South America by the Portuguese in the 16th century. 

Everywhere Musa grows, it has been closely linked to the economy and welfare of the people nearby as the fruit (bananas) are a major source of nutrients (and the 4th largest fruit crop in the world according to earth.org), while the large leaves can be used as material for roofing, flooring, or as food. 

Fun fact: Young banana plants are known as “pups” and look like tiny shoots sprouting out of the soil from the mother’s roots as a form of asexual reproduction. 

While all varieties can produce fruit, the taste of Musa cultivars will vary and might not taste like a banana from the grocery store. Bananas produced by the Bronana, a cultivar of Musa tropicana, will typically be less sweet in comparison while the Musa Nono will be creamy and sweet with hints of vanilla. 

Fun fact: While Carl Linnaeus officially named the genus “Musa” in 1753, bananas already had an established name and reputation, as Musa is the latinization of the Arabic term for the fruit “Mauz” that was published in an 11th century Arabic encyclopedia “The Canon of Medicine.” 

In order to care for your banana plant properly, it's a good idea to know how to make sure it is actually a Musa as other tropical plants have similar foliage and variegation (coloring patterns), especially when they’re younger.

Musa are fast growers that love their sunlight and nutrients, requiring a moderate amount of hands on care to ensure they’re kept in ideal conditions, especially if your goal is home-grown bananas or plantains. This makes them the perfect houseplants for beginners with a bit of experience or advanced collectors. Indoor house plants are less likely to bear fruit compared to outdoor banana trees unless given sufficient light even in winter. 

Pro-Tip: Once bananas appear, leave them attached for up to 3 months to ripen before claiming your snack. After you harvest the bananas, cut off the fruit shoots so new shoots emerge from the soil. 

While Musa leaves are large and can grow up to 10 feet, they are also delicate and might shred or tear if exposed to wind or handled roughly. Treat the leaves gently, and if planted outdoors, choose a spot that provides some shelter from the wind. The torn leaves can be cut off, especially if they begin to turn brown. 

When pups appear, you generally only want to keep 1-2 as successors and the rest should be removed to help the plant focus on growth instead of propagation. When removing, use a sanitized spade to cut away the pup from the mother plant’s rhizome leaving only a small bit of root attached then you can repot the pup by itself or discard. If your goal is propagation, wait until the pup is about a foot tall to remove. 

In the first year of growth, Musa's rapid growth means you can expect to repot 2 - 3 times as its roots expand. Your first pot should be twice the size of the root ball, otherwise it is too small and can cause growth restrictions and prevent you Musa from flowering or bearing fruit. 

After the first year, Bronana likes to be repotted every 2-3 years with fresh soil in a pot one size larger (about 1-2 inches larger in diameter or 20% bigger). Once you see roots blocking or passing through the drainage holes, it’s time to repot. 

As these plants like to grow tall like trees, choose pots that are more wide and low as they tend to be sturdier compared to narrow and tall pots. The rhizomes of the Banana Plant’s roots also like being close to the surface, so a wide pot allows more surface area for them to spread out instead of down. 

Water your Banana Plant every 2-3 days or when the top 1-2 inches of potting mix feel dry when you stick your finger into the pot during daily soil checks. Give your Musa a good soak and add water until it drains from the pot's drainage holes. This means the soil is thoroughly moistened. 

In winter, reduce watering frequency as the plant grows more slowly and requires less water, and excessive winter watering can lead to root rot. Musa likes moist soil, they don’t like to sit in water. 

Fun fact: Musa’s large leaves mean they also have a lot of surface area to transpire from, and will need constant watering during the warmer summer months to replace lost moisture.

6 hours of direct sunlight or, if kept indoors, offer at least 6-8 hours of indirect sunlight daily. Artificial lighting can be used in the winter months to ensure they receive enough light. Because of where they grow naturally, Banana Plants love light, so place them by a south-facing window and avoid long term shade. Excess shade can make the plant appear leggy due to a lack of nutrients from the sun. 

Banana plants can be placed outside in the summer to soak up direct sunlight, as long as night temperatures remain above 60F (15 °C) and they are slowly acclimatized to the transition from indoor light to outdoor conditions. Find a slightly shady place outdoors for a day or two first before graduating to full outdoor sunlight. 

Pro-Tip: The type of sun (direct or indirect) may vary by cultivar with those with white variegation will be more sensitive to light and should be closely watched due to a lack of protective chlorophyll. 

60-90% humidity is ideal for Musa, so keep your Banana Plant near a humidifier, plant it or display it in groupings, use a pebble tray with water beneath the pot, or place it in naturally humid rooms like the kitchen, bathroom, greenhouse, or near a steam room to increase the humidity levels.

Banana plants are from tropical regions but readily acclimate to typical home conditions of 60-85°F (15-30 °C). It is recommended to keep the temperature above 50°F (10°F) as colder temperatures can shock the plant and stunt its growth or lead to death. 

If your Banana Plant has yellow or brown leaves, or is producing fruit that tastes terrible, this can be your first indication of suboptimal growth conditions. Here are some of the most common issues so your “Bronana” and other Banana Plants can boldly spread their leaves. 

Expect some leaf browning as the plant adjusts to new environments; this is a normal sign of stress as long as the leaf recovers. Lower leaves are also more likely to brown and can be removed by cutting the leaf about 5cm from the stem. The plant will naturally shed the nub and by cutting slightly away from the leaf stalk you can prevent exposing your Musa to disease. 

If the leaves are turning yellow, appear small, and dropping, or the fruit tastes bad, try reducing watering frequency. Check the top few inches of your potting mix to make sure it isn’t waterlogged. 

Yellow spots on the leaves can be a sign of over-fertilization, so if you see this, reduce fertilization frequency. 

If the leaves are curling inwards, shriveling, turning brown, or drooping, check if the soil is too dry. Frayed leaves can also signal they need more water. Water the soil until it feels damp but not wet, and water begins draining from the bottom of the pot. If the leaves do not recover, prune them. 

Brown leaves and leaf dropping, even with frequent watering, may also be due to low humidity or low temperatures. Check that your room’s humidity is between 50% and 70%, and your Musa is not next to a vent, heater, or fan, as Musa are sensitive to sudden temperature changes.

For pale leaves that have lost their variegation, the issue is too much direct light, which causes the leaves to fade by reducing chlorophyll production as a protective mechanism. Move the plant out of direct sunlight or into the shade, and it should regain its original coloring. 

Loss of color or brown spots along the edges that progressively worsen, and drooping leaves are signs of leaf burn. The white portions of the Bronana leaves and other colors of variegation are sun-sensitive and should be closely monitored for white or brown breaks in their patterned leaves, which can indicate leaf burn. 

If you notice these signs, try:

1. Move the pot to a position with only indirect light.

2. Prune any leaves that appear mostly brown/badly damaged to help the plant focus on new growth.

3. Ensure soil remains adequately watered.

Musa has rhizomatous roots that are prone to root rot if left in soggy soil where water fills the air pockets in the pot, promoting fungal and bacterial growth. Black spots on the leaves, collapsed or wilted appearing vines, and a foul smell will be your first indications of root rot. 

If you suspect root rot, remove your plant from the pot and follow the steps below:

1. Trim any rotting or dead roots with sharp, sanitized shears. If it is discolored, smells or feels squishy, trim it off! 

2. Treat the roots with a hydrogen peroxide solution (3 parts water to 1 part peroxide) or plant-safe fungicide to make sure all bacteria and other potential threats are washed away. But be careful not to get any into the potting mix.

3.  Re-pot new well-draining potting mix, ensuring the pot has holes in the bottom for proper drainage.

Banana trees are generally hardy but keep an eye out for pests like spider mites, mealy bugs, and thrips. Regularly inspect the underside of the leaves and stem joints for hiding pests.

Pro-tip: Gently wiping the leaves with a damp cloth prevents dust build-up and deters pests from setting up camp.

For Banana plants, a well-draining, aerated potting mix with perlite, orchid bark, and other chunky mediums rich in potassium and phosphorus is an excellent choice. Our signature blend, Dirt Bag, is specifically mixed to be pH balanced to ensure optimal soil quality and promote growth.

As these plants are nutrient-hungry, replace the potting mix at least once a year to replenish nutrients. You can find all of our potting mixes here.

Fun fact: Banana plants can produce a new leaf every 7-10 days during the growing months. 

Use a balanced liquid fertilizer every 2-3 weeks during the growing season (spring & summer) to keep your Musa well-fed. Stop fertilizing in the fall and winter.