How to Care for Your Citronella Plant
Read in: 10 min
Read in: 10 min
Citronella (also known as the Mosquito plant, Pelargonium citrosum, and citrosa geranium), is an evergreen perennial known for its lacy leaves and lemony scent. Native to South Africa, this herbaceous shrub produces bright pink, white, or lavender flowers over the summer months, and can bloom outdoors in warmer climates like Florida or Southern California in the USA.
While originally marketed as a mosquito repellant, as biological compounds like citronellol, geraniol, and citronellal can be found in the plant leaves and can repel mosquitos, the amounts present are so small that it would require crushing the leaves to show any effect. With that said, while citronella plants may not repel a mosquito, the plant is not pet safe, so make sure it is out of the way of cats and dogs that like to chew.
Plant parents and gardeners love these plants as they are easy-to-care for houseplants, they love sun and can tolerate light shade both indoors and outdoors, and they have adapted to drought making them perfect for beginners. So if you’re ready to help your Citronella thrive, this guide walks you through watering, sunlight, and diagnosing common health issues.
Pelargonium citrosum is a hybrid plant whose roots can be found with the Pelargoniums living in tropical regions of Southern Africa along the Western Cape and Langeberg Mountains, growing on the sandy banks along rivers and streams. The seeds are adapted to spread through the wind, as they are lightweight and have a feathered spiral-shaped tail to help the seed drill into the soil when it lands. The bright flowers help attract bees for pollination, while its lemony scent deters local wildlife from taking a bite.
While the plants have been on collector’s radars since the late 1700’s, it wasn’t until the 1990s that the mosquito plant became popular all over the world due to marketing. Its scent resembles the lemongrass or citronella grass (Cymbopogon nardus) allowing marketers to create a comparison and since then it has thrived as part of household nurseries and home landscapes. That’s likely why you’re seeing them at your nursery and are on this guide.
Knowing if your Citronella is the actual plant is vital to giving it proper care. Although Citronella is called a geranium, since 1789 they have been classified as a separate genus, Pelargonium, that is within the same Geraniacea family as Geraniums.
Most geraniums on the market are actually Pelargoniums, known as scented geraniums or tender geraniums. Unlike true geraniums, Pelargoniums are not cold resistant, have a woody stem, and most flowers are asymmetrical with 5 petals and patterns.
There are 3 Pelargonium species that are sold interchangeably as the Mosquito plant in many nurseries: Pelargonium citrosum, Pelargonium graveolens, and the cultivar Pelargonium citrosum 'Van Leenii.' Here’s how to identify yours.
Names |
Citronella Pelargonium, Mosquito plant, Citronella geranium, Citronella plant, Citrosa, Pelargonium citrosum, Pelargonium graveolens, Scented geranium, Pelargonium citrosum 'Van Leenii', |
Family |
Geraniacea |
Genus |
Pelargonium |
Leaf colors |
Green |
Spathe colors |
n/a |
Variegation |
Yes |
Fenestration |
No |
Root type |
FIbrous with taproot |
Height grown indoors |
1-3 feet |
Height grown outdoors |
2-5 feet |
Width |
1-2 feet |
Time to maturity |
1-2 years |
Soil PH |
5.8 to 6.5 |
Soil type |
Aerated, Well-Draining |
Blooming |
Perennial or Annual |
Flower type and color |
white, pink, lavender |
Pet safe |
No |
Total species |
3 |
Propagation techniques |
Division, Cuttings, Seeds |
Citronella Pelargoniums are easygoing plants that love sun and warm temperatures, and should be overwintered inside. With the guide below, you’ll learn how to keep your scented geranium thriving year round.
Pro-tip: Deadhead or pinch off small stems to encourage more blooms.
If grown in a container, look for one that is at least 12 inches deep and twice as large as the root ball to give the taproots plenty of room to grow. If grown outside as part of the landscape with multiple plants, your Citronella loves their space as it helps them get enough light to all their leaves and should be given at least 12 inches of space between plants.
Pro-tip: 5-10 days after transplanting into a new container, pinch back stems and older flowers to keep your Citronella shrub like and promote fresh growth in its new pot. You can also rotate your shrub every week to ensure all sides benefit from plenty of light and have even growth.
Water when the top 1-2 inches of potting mix feel dry, usually around every 5-6 days in the warmer months. When the top few inches feel dry when you stick your finger into the pot, give your plant a good soak and add water until it drains from the pot's drainage holes. This means the soil is thoroughly moistened and can also flush excess salts in the soil.
Pro-tip: These scented geraniums are drought tolerant, but if you see the edges of the leaves start to turn brown it’s time to increase watering frequency as that means your mosquito plant is thirsty.
Overwatering can cause root rot, so it is better to wait a few days until the top 1-2 inches feel dry when you stick your finger into the pot rather than stick to a strict watering schedule. The rule of thumb is you’ll water more frequently in hot, dry climates compared to cooler humid ones. Reduce watering in the fall and winter as temperatures cool and growing slows.
Pro-tip: Avoid watering with tap water; Citronella can be sensitive to the minerals found in hard tap water, and prolonged exposure can cause tip burn. Use distilled, filtered, rain, or bottled water instead.
Citronella prefers bright direct light for at least 6-8 hours a day when grown outside, and up to 12 hours if inside. Place by a South, East, or West facing window that receives plenty of light throughout the day, or by a north facing window with hot afternoon sun filtered by a gauze curtain or shade cloth.
If your plant appears leggy or has sprawling floppy stems, it probably needs more sunlight. Move it outside or onto a windowsill or box to increase light exposure.
Mosquito plants can be placed on an outside patio during the warm spring and summer months without needing a blind, shade, or shadow so they can get more direct light exposure. But make sure to spend a few days slowly adjusting their position outside from partial shade to full direct sunlight to help them acclimate to the change from indoors to outdoors if you take them in during the colder months.
Plant fact: Young plants will be less tolerant of direct sunlight in the afternoons, so try to position them to receive plenty of bright morning sun instead.
Citronella prefer a humidity range of 40-80% but tolerate standard home humidity levels. Plant groupings, a pebble tray with water under the pot can help make sure they have enough, or placing them in naturally humid rooms like the kitchen or bathroom can be a good choice. Most homes are already in this range, so you’re likely already good to go.
Mosquito plants require a temperature range from 65-80°F (18-26°C). Your plant can tolerate brief cold spells below 50°F (10 °C) but prolonged exposure can cause cold damage or plant death. Once late September comes, or the first frost hits, keep your Citronella inside to soak up the warmth.
Citronella is a low maintenance plant, but it can experience color changes in its roots or leaves if conditions aren’t ideal. Here are some common signs of nonideal conditions and what to do.
If the leaves are shriveling, wilting, or turning brown, check if the soil is too dry as you may be underwatering. If your plant wilts in the heat of the midday sun and has not recovered by evening it likely needs more water. Add water to the soil until it feels damp but not wet, and until water begins draining from the bottom of the pot. Make sure your potting mix is well draining but does retain some moisture.
If the leaves are turning yellow, appear pale, or have started dropping, this is a sign of overwatering so reduce the watering frequency and check for bacterial or fungal growth. Your plant may also appear limp and the roots may also have turned brown or black if overwatered. Check the top few inches of your potting mix to make sure it isn’t waterlogged. Remove the discolored leaves to promote foliage growth and flower formation.
As your Citronella matures, older leaves also naturally start to turn yellow. Once there are no more green parts of the leaf, it can be pruned to promote new growth. If it's a single leaf yellowing at a time, it’s more likely to be aging compared to the plant as a whole turning yellow.
Yellow leaf edges can also be a sign of shock due to watering with cold water. Use room temperature water instead, especially with sensitive young plants.
If the leaves appear dark green or lose their variegation, the issue is dim lighting and your Citronella needs to be moved closer to a window with brighter lighting or spend more time in the light. The change in leaf color from grass green to dark green is due to the increased chlorophyll production, which increases their efficiency at absorbing light to compensate for decreased availability.
For overall pale leaves, the issue is too much direct light, which causes the leaf color to fade by reducing chlorophyll production as a protective mechanism. Excessive light will cause the leaf to go from pale to brown. Mosquito plants generally love direct sunlight, but young plants are less tolerant of the heat of the afternoon sun or being placed directly outside without an acclimation period. Bring your plant inside if outside, and try an East facing window for gentle morning light. You can also switch to artificial grow lights scheduled to provide light for 6-8 hours a day until the plant recovers.
Pale or greyish leaves might also be due to underwatering. Increase watering frequency, especially in the hotter summer months, and water as soon as the top 2 inches (up to your second knuckle) of soil feel dry.
Brown tips are a sign of tip burn and are often caused by salts or chemicals like fluoride and chlorine in the water you use, which build in the soil and are then absorbed by your Citronella and accumulate in the leaves. Switch to distilled, filtered or bottled water and trim the brown tips as they appear with sterilized shears.
Pro-tip: If tap water is your only option, let it sit out overnight to allow some of the chemicals (like chlorine) to evaporate before watering.
Low humidity can also cause tip burn as the lack of moisture in the air will cause the plant to transpire faster than normal leading to localized deficiencies on the edges of the leaves. Use a humidistat to monitor humidity, and add plant groupings or a pebble tray to increase it. Check that your Mosquito plant is not next to a vent, heater or air conditioner. You can also move your plant to a more humid room, like the bathroom or kitchen.
If the leaves do not recover after adjusting the water and humidity,pinch back the stem of the affected leaves to encourage new growth.
Loss of color or brown spots along the edges that progressively worsen, and drooping leaves are signs of leaf burn. Young plants are more susceptible to sunburn and should be closely monitored.
If you notice these signs, try:
Moving the pot to another position with only indirect light exposure or into the shade.
Pruning any leaves that appear mostly brown/badly damaged to help the plant focus on new growth.
Ensuring the potting mix or garden soil (if outside and planted in the ground) remains adequately watered.
Citronella has a fibrous root system with a tap root, which is susceptible to root rot if left in soggy soil where water fills the air pockets in the pot. Black spots on the roots, leaves, or stem, and a foul smell will be your first indications of root rot.
If you suspect root rot, remove your plant from the pot and follow the steps below:
Trim any rotting or dead roots with sharp, sanitized shears. If it is discolored, smells or feels squishy, trim it away.
Treat the roots with a hydrogen peroxide solution (3 parts water to 1 part 3% peroxide) or plant-safe fungicide to make sure all bacteria and other potential threats are washed away.
Re-pot in a new well-draining potting mix, ensuring the pot has holes in the bottom for proper drainage.
Pro-tip: After watering, remember to wipe off excess moisture from the leaves as this can also promote fungal and bacterial growth. Aim water at the soil, and remember to drain the saucer after watering to prevent stagnant water.
Citronella prefers a slightly acidic, well-draining potting mix that is sandy or loamy with perlite, sphagnum moss and pumice to prevent soggy soil and allow the roots to aerate.
To meet these needs, you can try our signature blend of potting mix Dirt Bag which is designed specifically for plants that are susceptible to root rot and provides ample nutrients for growth. Our Sphag bag contains 100% sphagnum moss to help you curate your potting mix for your mosquito plant.
Although not needed after maturity, young Citronella plants or Mosquito plants grown in pots can benefit from fertilizers. Dilute liquid fertilizers to half-strength and apply every 3-4 weeks during Spring and Summer. Avoid fertilizing when your Mosquito plant is flowering or in winter as this can disrupt the blooming cycle and promote leaf growth instead.
While Citronella plants are easy-to-care for and perfect for beginners, they can have some health issues. As long as you follow the instructions in this guide you’ll be able to keep your Citronella plant healthy and thriving.
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