How to Create and Care for Kokedama Plants

Kokedama, which means "moss ball" in Japanese, is a way to display plants without traditional pots by encasing them in a ball of potting mix and moss that can either be hung to create a hanging garden or placed in a tray. 

This centuries-old Japanese art form dates back to the Edo Period from 1603 - 1868 which was known for its agricultural development and it can be used on any plant, though low-maintenance varieties like Pothos or String of Pearls are best to help maintain this technique. Kokedama are popular because they’re living sculptures that add a new way to display the houseplants in your collection. If you’re ready to create your own Kokedama or need to treat a health issue, here’s everything you’ll need.

Kokedama is an easy type of living art you can create at home by yourself, with friends, or as a rainy day activity if you have kids.

You will need:

• Potting mix (2 cups for each 4” ball)

• Twine or waxed thread

• Houseplants

• Sphagnum or peat moss

• A clean bucket or large bowl with warm water

Follow these seven steps to create your Kokedama:

1. Soak large pieces of sphagnum or peat moss in warm water to prepare them for wrapping around the bulb later.

2. Remove the plant from the pot and clean the roots of any residual soil.

3. Take your potting mix, which should contain peat moss or sphagnum like our Sphag Bag and perlite or vermiculite for good aeration, and slowly add water to create a cake-mix like consistency.

4. Form a ball with the potting mix, at least 2-3 inches wider in diameter than the roots of your chosen plant, by gently squeezing. You should be able to toss the ball into the air without it falling apart. 

5. Once the ball is big enough, break it in half, then encase the roots and pack the ball back together, or dig out a hole in the top to gently insert your plant. 

6. Once the plant is situated, reform your ball and wrap it in your prepared moss

7. Use twine, waxed thread, or monofilament fishing line to wrap around your ball of soil and moss in a zig-zag (or “Wabi sabi”) pattern, then knot the two ends together. 

   1. Avoid using cotton thread as it will degrade over time and cause the Kokedama to fall apart. 

8. Optional: If you would like to hang your new Kokedama, take 2 long pieces of string and tie them to opposite sides of the string on the ball. Lift up using the string and whatever side the ball ends up listing to, tie a third piece of string to create a tripod. 

Water your Kokemdama for 10-15 minutes every 3-4 days by fully submerging the ball in a bowl of room-temperature water, plant-side up, once the ball feels light. You should see bubbles in the water. If you do not see bubbles, try gently squeezing the moss ball. 

Alternatively, your kokedema might be overwatered. Remove from water, gently squeeze, and allow to dry out. Your Kokedama has enough water once the ball feels saturated and heavy. 

Pro-tip: If the moss or your plant looks dry and thirsty, changes color, or has curled leaves, it’s time for a soak.

After soaking, gently squeeze out any excess water without damaging the roots. Then, let the Kokedama drain in a sink or a colander for a few minutes to avoid drips when you hang it back up or place it on its tray.

Water the moss on the Kokedama every 1-3 days, to keep it sufficiently moist. 

Depending on the plant, you may need to increase or decrease the soaking frequency. Succulents only require soaking once every 2-3 weeks, Philodendron like being watered once a week, and Orchids might require daily care. 

Give 4-6 hours of bright, indirect light for Kokedama planted with Ferns, Ivy, Pothos, and Philodendrons. Place by a window that receives no direct sun throughout the day, or by a window with light filtered by a gauze curtain or shade cloth. By not placing your Kokedama in direct sunlight, you can avoid moss scorching and the plant from drying out quickly in direct sunlight. 

Maintain humidity in the range of 40-60%, typical home humidity, based on the plant you have chosen for your Kokedama. Tropical plants will prefer humidity closer to 60% while Cactus will prefer 10% to 40% (make sure you use a dry and gritty potting mix for Cacti.) To monitor and maintain humidity levels, try a humidifier with a built-in humidistat in the room. Plant groupings or naturally humid rooms, such as the kitchen or bathroom, can also increase humidity.

Typical home conditions of 60-85°F (15-30 °C) are sufficient for most houseplants in a Kokedama to thrive. 

During the spring and summer, feed your plant with a diluted, balanced liquid fertilizer like our Arber Organic plant food about once a month by adding the fertilizer to your soaking water, and let the moss ball absorb the nutrients.

Trim any yellowing or dead leaves to encourage new growth and maintain the plant’s shape. If the moss starts to deteriorate or look sparse, you can wrap fresh moss around the ball to give it a rejuvenated appearance.

If your plant's roots start to poke out of the moss ball, trim them and remake the Kokedama to be slightly larger, or move the plant into a pot. The roots will not be harmed by being exposed and growing outside of the moss ball, so if you like the look, feel free to keep them. 

Kokedama is a living art form so common plant problems still exist including over and underwatering, and root rot. Here are some of the more common issues and how to treat them.

Brown moss can be due to over or underwatering, or if you’re only seeing brown patches, it could be a natural part of aging. If it feels dry or crispy and the Kokedama ball feels light, it is likely under-watered. If the ball feels heavy and the moss is brown, it might be overwatered. 

Insufficient humidity can turn your moss brown. Mist it with water every 1-3 days to keep it green and happy. Hard, unfiltered tap water might also turn moss brown due to its mineral content. Try using distilled or rainwater instead. 

Once moss turns completely brown, it is difficult to bring back. If you would like to recover the moss that is not completely brown but seems to be struggling, rather than replacing the Kokedama’s wrapping, here are some steps to try:

1. Take a clear plastic bag and lightly mist the inside

2. Wrap the plastic bag around the moss ball of the kokedema to create a moist greenhouse-like effect. 

3. Leave the bag for at least a week

4. When you water your plant, remove the bag, soak as usual, then allow the moss to drain and dry before returning it to the bag to prevent overwatering.

Kokedama are at higher risk of growing mold due to their watering method, especially if left in a cool, dark environment and overwatered.

If you see mold, try:

1. Soaking a clean cloth in diluted dishwashing soap/detergent (1 part soap to 10 parts water)

2. Wipe off any mold with the cloth. You do not need to rinse off the soap as it is helping prevent mold growth. 

3. Move the Kokedama to a place with better ventilation and lighting

Pro-Tip: You can also add some dish soap when watering your Kokedama to catch any mold that was missed when wiping or hidden in the potting mix. 

Kokedama requires regular soaking, and if the plant is incompatible or excess water is not gently squeezed out afterward, you might end up with soggy soil instead of moist soil. This promotes fungal and bacterial growth and leads to root rot. 

Black spots on the roots, leaves, or vines, collapsed or wilted appearing vines, and a foul smell will be your first indications of root rot. 

If you suspect root rot, remove your plant from the pot and follow the steps below:

1. Completely open your kokedema and remove the plant for inspection.

2. Trim any rotting or dead roots with sharp, sanitized shears if it is discolored, smells or feels squishy.

3. Treat the roots with a hydrogen peroxide solution (3 parts water to 1 part peroxide) or a plant-safe fungicide to ensure all bacteria and other potential threats are washed away. 

4. To avoid transplanting any bacteria or fungi living in the old potting mix you have two options.

   1. Re-create the kokedema with fresh potting mix

   2. Transplant into a pot with new well-draining potting mix, ensuring the pot has drainage holes at the bottom.