How to Care for & Get An Easter Cactus to Bloom

The Spring or Easter Cactus, also known as Rhipsalidopsis gaertneri (syn. S. gaertneri, H. gaertneri), is a perennial tropical houseplant with an initial flowering period that falls during late winter to Spring (March to May) around the Easter holiday earning it the name “Easter Cactus”. For 4-6 weeks every year, pink, red, or orange trumpet or star-shaped flowers will open with the sunrise and close with the sunset. 

Spring Cactus is considered a low-maintenance houseplant making it perfect for beginners, and it can live for over 100 years when taken care of. Much like a Christmas or Winter Cactus, it can be included in family photos for generations like a living heirloom. 

Fun Fact: The Easter Cactus is one of three recognized holiday cactuses named for flowering during the associated holiday, which include the Thanksgiving Cactus (Schlumbergera truncata) and Christmas Cactus (Schlumbergera bridgessii). 

If you’re looking for instructions on how to take care of your Easter Cactus and prevent common problems like bud dropping, we’re ready to help! This guide walks you through how to care for a Spring Cactus, including watering, sunlight, and diagnosing common issues. 

The Easter Cactus originates from the tropical rainforests where it grows in the coastal mountains of Southeastern Brazil at altitudes up to 5,000 feet. Like Orchids and Anthuriums, the Spring Cactus is considered an epiphyte that likes to grow on the bark of moss-covered trees, and a lithophyte that thrives within rocky crevices on top of other vegetation instead of in the ground. In the wild, small creatures like squirrels like to consume the Easter Cactus as food and a source of hydration. 

Fun fact: This Holiday Cactus found its way to Europe in the 18th century, likely through the port of Rio de Janero, and was named for the German Botanist Joseph Gaertner (1732-1791), whose last name means “Gardener” in German. 

The Easter Cactus has gone through multiple genus reclassifications based on physical characteristics, its epiphytic lifestyle, and molecular testing. The accumulated species names are now considered synonyms and used interchangeably for the Easter Cactus from Epiphyllopsis gaertneri to Schlumbergera gaertneri, Hatiora gaertneri, and  Rhipsalidopsis gaertneri (the currently accepted species name). This is why its important to know how and why it has different names, this way you can ensure you’re taking care of the right plant.

Fun fact: Most Easter Cacti on the market are actually hybrid cultivars called Rhipsalidopsis × graeseri from the only 2 accepted Rhipsalidopsis species, Rhipsalidopsis gaertneri and Rhipsalidopsis rosea. 

The Easter Cactus is considered an easy to care for houseplant that only needs weekly watering and indirect light in room temperatures to thrive. By following the instructions below, your Spring Cactus will be set up to bloom every Easter. Then it's up to nature to do its thing.

Water every 7 days in the spring and summer, when it's hotter and growing season, allowing the water to run until it drips from the drainage holes. If grown outdoors, water every 3 days. Once fall and winter arrive, decrease your watering frequency to every 10-14 days and maintain the reduced watering schedule until the buds have set in late winter. 

For all 4 seasons, the key is to check if the top 2-3 inches of soil feel dry when you put your finger into the soil before watering. Only the top few inches should feel dry, do not allow the soil to completely dry out as these plants are not as tolerant of drought as other cacti due to coming from a rainforest, not a desert. Wilting stems or lack of firmness in the leaves are signs your Easter Cactus is thirsty and you may need to adjust your watering schedule. 

This cactus does not like waterlogged soil, which can lead to root rot. When watering, make sure water is draining from the drainage holes, and they’re not clogged by the roots. Wilting stems may also be a sign of overwatering. 

Pro tip: This plant may be sensitive to the minerals in tap water, use distilled or filtered water to keep the foliage looking vibrant. 

Provide 4-6 hours of bright indirect sunlight a day, with up to 2 hours of bright direct light. Avoid direct sunlight during the hottest parts of the day in the afternoon. These houseplants thrive when placed by an East-facing window that receives no direct sun throughout the day, or by a window where the light is filtered using a gauze curtain or shade cloth. 

They do not like long periods of direct sunlight, which can cause discoloration or leaf burn, especially during the harsh summer months. While they may look like a Desert Cactus, they are not able to take the same level of sunlight.

The Spring Cactus prefers to be root-bound, and only needs to be transplanted to a pot one size up every 2-3 years in the Spring, once the soil can no longer provide nutrients after the cactus blooms. If the roots start growing out of the drainage holes, that is another cue to re-pot. 

At least 12 weeks before you would like to see flowers, provide your Easter Cactus with 12-14 hours of darkness per day to resemble long winter nights. Place this plant in a room where it will not be exposed to artificial or ambient lighting at night to help ensure its biological clock stays on track. 

If the dark room is different from the display room, try to ensure the conditions in both spaces match, otherwise sudden changes may cause buds to drop. The Easter Cactus is a thermo-photoperiodic plant, meaning flowering is dependent on both temperature and light changes in the environment. 

Pro-tip: Try gently covering your Spring Cactus at night with a box or black cloth if no dark spaces are available.

Evening temperatures over 65°F (15 °C) will prevent blooming and flower development. 10-12 weeks before you would like to see flowers, aim for about 50-55°F (10- 13 °C) to mimic a cooler night compared to the day and trigger bud formation. During the day, keep temperatures around 60-65°F. If kept in the ideal environment, expect to see your Easter Cactus bloom between March and May, and the blooms can last for weeks. 

After flowering ends, prune while still in the growth phase to promote branch formation. Avoid waiting until fall to prune as that is when the Whitsun cacti goes into dormancy. 

If your Spring Cactus does not bloom, it may be too young. Flowers usually appear during their second spring, 2-3 years after growing from a seed, or 12 months after propagation. 

Maintain 40-60% humidity to match the natural habitat of the Easter Cactus. This is the same as most homes, so there won’t be much needed for you to do. To monitor and maintain humidity levels, try a humidifier with a built-in humidistat in the room. Plant groupings or a pebble tray with water under the pot can also increase humidity. 

Temperatures around 60-80°F (15- 25 °C) are preferred during the growing and blooming season. In the fall, lower the temperature range at night to 50-55°F (10- 13 °C), to trigger bud formation. 

Signs your Easter Cactus has a health issue include buds dropping, drooping stems, and discoloration. Here are some of the most common causes of illness in Spring Cactus plants, along with steps to treat them. 

Once you spot budding, it is key not to try to turn or adjust the cactus in an attempt to promote blooming on other branches. Buds develop facing the light, and when you turn the plant, they will have to adjust their position to face the “new” light direction, which can cause more bud dropping. It’s best to leave the pot in the same position and not move it during this sensitive period. 

Buds dropping may also be due to overwatering, so during the budding stage reduce watering as it will cause the plant to prioritize growth instead of budding/flowering. Try allowing the top few inches of soil to dry out during the flowering season (fall/winter). 

Sudden temperature changes may cause buds to drop. Make sure your plant is away from drafts, heaters, and vents. 

Buds dropping can also be a part of natural pruning, as the plant may have produced more buds than it can support spatially or with the available nutrients. Supplement with a fertilizer diluted to half strength and continue to provide long cool nights. 

Pro-tip: If your plant is dropping branches and not just buds, it’s likely too heavy and the plant can’t support the weight. Prune back the larger branches and look at moving to a slightly larger pot to help re-distribute the weight. 

If the segments are changing color, from green to pale green, yellow, red or pink the plant may be getting too much sun or too little water. In particular, red or pink is usually a sign of stress from too many changes in temperature or light. Move the plant to a location with less time in direct sunlight like an east-facing window that only provides morning sun. You’ll also want to ensure the temperature is kept consistent in the room. 

If the discoloration is caused by too little water, the stems may also be drooping, wrinkled, and feel squishy instead of firm to the touch. Put your finger into the soil and feel if the top few inches feel dry, which means it needs water. Increase your watering frequency, and remember to water until it starts to drain from the drainage holes (meaning the entire soil has been moistened). 

Too much water can also cause yellowing or wilting. Check drainage holes to ensure they’re not blocked and try to space out your watering schedule more. Avoid watering again until the top 2-3 inches of the soil feel dry. You can also remove your Easter Cactus from the pot and allow the roots to dry out, then repot it in fresh potting mix. 

Reddish discoloration can also indicate a lack of phosphorus. Replant in fresh potting mix, or add a phosphorus-rich liquid fertilizer to your routine every 2-4 weeks during the Spring and Summer. 

Pro-tip: If your plant looks brown or cork-like at the base, this is likely a sign of aging and is normal as long as it is not scaled or accompanied by a bad odor (root rot). 

Easter Cacti are tropical succulents that can experience sun burn, where the branches start to turn yellow or brown along the segments or appear bleached, when exposed to too much direct light (more than 2 hours). 

If you notice signs leaf burn:

1. Move the pot to another position with only indirect light exposure.

2. Prune any branches that appear mostly brown/badly damaged to help the plant focus on new growth.

3. Ensure soil remains adequately watered.

Easter Cacti are epiphytes, so their root systems are prone to root rot if left in soggy soil, where water fills the air pockets in the pot, promoting fungal and bacterial growth. One of your first clues will be grey-green discoloration, a wilted appearance, dropping branches, as well as an unpleasant smell. 

You might also see black slimy lesions that progress from the base of the plant up its branches, indicative of bacterial growth. 

If you suspect root rot, remove your plant from the pot and follow the steps below:

1. Trim any rotting or dead roots with sharp, sanitized shears. If it is discolored, smells or feels squishy, trim! 

2. Treat the roots with a hydrogen peroxide solution (3 parts water to 1 part peroxide) or plant-safe fungicide to make sure all bacteria and other potential threats are washed away. 

3. Re-pot in a well-draining potting mix and ensure that there are holes in the bottom of the pot to allow for proper drainage.

Rhipsalidopsis gaertneri prefers well-draining aerated soil with a mixture of chunky media like peat moss, perlite, and coarse sand or loam. Our signature blend, Dirt Bag, is designed specifically for plants that are susceptible to root rot if left in soggy soil while providing ample nutrients for growth. Our Coco bag is another great option if you would like to be more hands-on with your Easter Cactus’s growth and hand-tailor their nutrition using a well-aerated base. 

For added nutrition, from the late winter to summer (March to May), add a balanced water-soluble fertilizer (10-10-10 or 20-20-20) at half-strength every 2-4 weeks to assist with the growing phase. Do not add fertilizer in the fall so that the plant can transition to using its energy to bloom during the dormancy period. 

Caring for a Spring Cactus is easy, and helping your Easter Cactus bloom in time for Easter is a matter of planning ahead about 10 to 12 weeks in advance. We hope you found this guide to plant care helpful.