How to Care for Caladium (Angel Wings) Plants
Read in: 9 min
Read in: 9 min
Caladium plants, also known as Angel Wings, are perennials characterized by large, 6 to 12-inch-wide heart-shaped leaves and have a preference for shade. However, newer varieties have been bred to exhibit greater tolerance to sunlight making them more ideal for sunrooms and outdoor spaces with partial shade.
Each Caladium is unique, with its own signature blend of bright white, red, green, or pink leaf patterns that brighten even dark corners with a touch of the tropics. These patterns might look like blooming flowers in the leaf like in the “Thai Pink” or a gradual blend of color as seen in the “Fairytale Princess.” Some Caladium bicolor varieties, like the “Snow,” have striking green veins to contrast with their snowy white leaves with soft cloud-like pink patterns.
While they’re considered easy to care for if kept in a warm, humid environment, they are very sensitive to frost and just like other outdoor or indoor houseplants, they can have health issues. If you’re looking for instructions on how to keep caladium’s foliage flourishing year after year, we’re ready to help. This guide will walk you through caring for your Caladium, including watering, sunlight, and diagnosing common issues.
In order to diagnose the issues, it’s important to know where they originate and how they’re classified. This way you can look at where they are for a starting point and help to mimic their ideal growing habits.
Caladiums call the tropical rainforests of South and Central America home, like Brazil and the Amazon basin. At the base of towering trees and along riverbanks, the leaves extend directly from petioles connected to their tuberous roots (called bulbs).
In warm climates, Angel Wings are perennials that emerge from the soil each year, forming shrub-like or clump-like foliage that provides ground cover for small land-dwelling animals like mice to run without being spotted by larger or flying predators.
Their bright colors also attract pollinators, such as bees and other insects, while deterring herbivores by warning of their toxicity. These plants rarely flower outside their native habitat, forming small blooms that hide among the leaves. They’re pollinated by small insects that can reach them through the surrounding foliage so they can produce white berries for surrounding wildlife to snack on.
Since their discovery in the Amazon River Basin in the late 1700s, their bright foliage rapidly gained popularity in American and European greenhouses as ornamental plants. In the over 150 years since, from the 17-20 accepted species, more than 1,000 cultivars are now available.
This includes North American regions that experience frost, where they are treated as annuals rather than perennials. However, dedicated horticulturists might dig up the plants before frost, allow the bulbs to dry out, then store them until spring so they can be replanted and bloom again.
Fun Fact: Caladiums and Alocasia share the nickname "elephant ear" because both have large, heart-shaped leaves. Compared to Alocasia, Caladiums have paper-thin leaves with bright patterns that can vary from leaf to leaf.
Names |
Caladium, Caladium hortulanum, Caladium bicolor, Malanga, Elephant's Ears, Stoplight, Seagull, Mother-in-law Plant, Pink Cloud, Texas Wonder, Angel Wings, Exposition, Candidum, Fancy-leaved Caladium |
Family |
Aracae (Aroid, Arum) |
Genus |
Caladium |
Leaf colors |
White, Green, Red, Pink |
Spathe colors |
yellow-green, greenish-white, pink |
Variegation |
yes |
Fenestration |
yes |
Root type |
Tubers (bulbs) |
Height grown indoors |
6 inches to 3 feet |
Height grown outdoors |
6 inches to 3 feet |
Width |
1 foot to 3 feet |
Time to maturity |
9 weeks |
Soil PH |
5.5 to 6.5 |
Soil type |
Well-draining aerated soil |
Blooming |
Rarely in indoor conditions |
Flower type and color |
Spadix with spathe in yellow-green, greenish-white, pink, cream |
Pet safe |
No |
Total species |
17-20 |
Propagation techniques |
Tuber division, water propagation |
These aroids are easy to care for once placed in the right environment, and can reach maturity in a single growing season. By following the guide below, you can keep your Caladium’s leaves bright season after season.
Pro-tip: If your plant is sprouting late, the bulbs may have been exposed to temperatures below 45°F, causing a 4-6 week delay in sprouting.
Once leaves start to appear, water every 1-2 days and allow the top 1-2 inches of soil to dry out between waterings, as Caladium is susceptible to root rot if left in moist or soggy soil. When the top few inches feel dry when you stick your finger into the pot, give your Caladium a good soak and add water until it drains from the pot's drainage holes. This means the soil is thoroughly moistened.
Pro-tip: The hotter the temperature, the more often you should water. In the heat of summer, check your plants daily.
In winter, once the leaves start to die, you can stop watering as the plant enters dormancy. This includes houseplants, which will respond to the decrease in available light in the winter months. When new growth appears in the spring, begin watering again.
Provide up to 4 hours of indirect light daily by placing them in a room with natural light, on the side of a porch without direct sunlight, or in a shady spot by a tree. Caladiums prefer shade, and do not require direct sunlight unless the cultivar has been bred to tolerate light. Their bright foliage and paper-thin leaves make them more susceptible to sunburn and color loss when exposed to excessive sunlight.
Pro-tip: Cultivars that are more tolerant of direct sunlight will have narrower leaves compared to more sensitive native varieties. Read the plant care instructions to find if the one you bought can handle more intense sunlight.
Caladiums prefer a humidity range of 50-70%. To monitor and maintain humidity, use a humidifier with a built-in humidistat in the room. Plant groupings, a pebble tray with water beneath the pot, or naturally humid rooms such as the kitchen, bathroom, or sauna can also increase humidity.
Angel Wings are from tropical regions but readily acclimate to typical home conditions of 65-85°F (15-30 °C). In the spring, soil temperatures of 70°F trigger the plant to exit dormancy.
If there is a risk of frost, they should be moved indoors 4-6 weeks before the first predicted frost or dug up, allowed to dry out with any foliage cut away, then stored in mesh bags packed with potting mix in a room at least 70°F until temperatures rise again. Removing the tubers from the pot can also prevent rot caused by retained moisture in the pot that the plant is no longer absorbing during dormancy.
Pro tip: Keep your Caladium away from vents, drafts, and fans to maintain a consistent temperature and prevent shock.
Choose a pot with drainage holes slightly larger than the tuber (at least 6 inches deep). When planting your tubers, ensure the eyes (growth points) where the petioles will emerge are oriented upward and just below the soil surface. The growth points usually feel bumpier and the “bottom” will feel flatter in comparison. The soil should be moist and warm (at least 65F), as cold soil will promote root rot.
Repot every 1-3 years when roots emerge from the drainage holes, as these plants like to be slightly root-bound.
Pro-tip: Plant your tubers around 6 inches apart to create a fuller more shrub-like look if planting outdoors.
If your Caladium’s bright leaves are changing color, curling, or drooping, this can be your first indication of suboptimal growth conditions. Here are some of the most common issues and solutions to keep your Angel Wings bold and beautiful.
Pro-tip: Remember, this plant enters dormancy in winter and is expected to lose all its leaves during that period. Prune off the old leaves as they start to discolor in the fall and winter when the plant enters dormancy.
If the leaves are turning yellow and dropping, try reducing watering frequency. Check the top few inches of your potting mix to make sure it isn’t waterlogged. Don’t panic if you see a bit of dropping. One or two drooping leaves are normal as the plant transitions to dormancy. If all the leaves are drooping, you might be watering too much or too little.
If the leaves are curling inwards, shriveling, turning brown, or drooping, check if the soil is too dry. Water the soil until it feels damp but not wet, and water begins draining from the bottom of the pot. If the leaves do not recover, prune them.
Brown crispy leaves, even with frequent watering, may also be due to low humidity. Check that your room’s humidity is between 50% and 70%, and your Caladium is not next to a vent, heater, or fan, as their paper-thin leaves are sensitive.
Brown discoloration may be due to over-fertilizing. Do not use fertilizer while your Angel Wings are in dormancy, and use it only once every other week at most during the growing months in the spring. Dilute your fertilizer to half-strength, or space out fertilizations to every 2 weeks to once a month, if brown discoloration occurs.
For pale leaves, the issue is too much direct light, which causes the leaves to fade by reducing chlorophyll production as a protective mechanism. Move the plant out of direct sunlight or into the shade, and it should regain its original coloring.
Pro-tip: If your Caladium blooms, it is best to cut off any blooms at the spike so your plant focuses on producing bright leaves. Compared with blooms, tuber division and water propagation are more reliable methods for expanding your caladium collection.
Loss of color or brown spots along the edges that progressively worsen, and drooping leaves are signs of leaf burn. These plants are sun-sensitive and should be closely monitored for white or brown breaks in their patterned leaves, which can indicate leaf burn.
If you notice these signs, try:
Moving the pot to a position with only indirect light, or into the shade.
Pruning any leaves that appear mostly brown/badly damaged to help the plant focus on new growth.
Ensuring the soil remains adequately watered.
Caladiums have tuberous bulb-like roots that are prone to root rot when grown in soggy soil where water fills the air pockets in the pot, promoting fungal and bacterial growth. Black spots on the roots, leaves, or petioles, collapsed or wilted appearing petioles, and a foul smell will be your first indications of root rot.
Pro-tip: Do not try to overwinter your tubers in a fridge, as the cold, moist environment will cause root rot. Just like condensation forms inside zip-lock bags stored in the refrigerator, promoting mold growth, the same will happen with your tubers.
If you suspect root rot, remove your plant from the pot and follow the steps below:
Trim any rotting or dead roots with sharp, sanitized shears.
Treat the roots with a hydrogen peroxide solution (3 parts water to 1 part peroxide) or plant-safe fungicide to make sure all bacteria and other potential threats are washed away.
Re-pot the Caladium in a new well-draining potting mix, ensuring the pot has holes in the bottom for proper drainage.
If you use the same pot, make sure to clean it and use the fungicide first in case any bacteria or fungus was left behind.
For Caladiums, a well-draining, slightly acidic, aerated potting mix with perlite, orchid bark, vermiculite, and other chunky mediums is an excellent choice. Our signature blend, Dirt Bag, is specifically mixed for aroids like these to ensure optimal soil quality and promote growth. Repot as needed (roughly every two years) to give your plant room to grow.
Pro-Tip: Aerated soil with chunky media is essential, as if the soil is too dense, it will retain too much water, creating a soggy environment that promotes root rot.
For outdoor Caladium, a balanced liquid fertilizer at half or 1/4th strength, applied every 2-4 weeks during the growing season in Spring and Summer, will keep your bright foliage well-fed. Stop fertilizing in the fall and winter, as the plant enters dormancy. The fertilizer must be balanced, as an imbalance in nitrogen can affect leaf color.
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