Plant Care Instructions for Pothos (Epipremnum) Plants

Pothos plants, also known by their genus Epipremnum or Devil’s Ivy, are known for their heart-shaped leaves and long trailing vines. These beginner-friendly evergreen plants are native to tropical areas like the Solomon Islands in the South Pacific and can be grown in hanging baskets or as a climber to bring a touch of the tropics to your home. 

This plant generally will only flower in its natural habitat, however, Epipremnum’s heart-shaped leaves can come in a variety of colors, from dark green to “Neon” species, rare variegations with reflective silvery leaves like the “Cebu Blue” with silver and blue tones or a marbled appearance like the “Pearls and Jade.” Some varieties, like the “Golden” appear to have flecks of gold all over the leaves, earning it the nickname “Money Plant.”

Fun fact: Epipremnum and Scindapsus are often used interchangeably as Pothos used to be classified under the Scindapsus genus due to their similar appearance with heart-shaped leaves and vines, but they’re actually now two different genera under the family Araceae. 

Epipremnum leaves are glossy and thin. In comparison, Scindapsus leaves are more matte and thicker. Also, while the juvenile stages look similar, Pothos can develop fenestration on its leaves over time, while Scindapsus will not. 

In their adult form, some Epipremnum’s leaves can appear like feathers (pinnate), but much like flowering, this rarely ever occurs with Pothos plants grown in pots. 

If you’re looking for instructions on how to take care of your Pothos plant, or noticed the colors of the leaves have become less vibrant or drooping, we’re ready to help! This guide will walk you through how to care for Epipremnium’s vibrant leaves and vines, including watering, sunlight, and diagnosing common issues.

The Pothos plant is native to forested areas with a tropical climate in the French Polynesian Islands (Mo’orea in the Society islands specifically), Southeast Asia, Indonesia, and the Solomon Islands where it likes to grow as a 6-8 foot long scrambler (ground cover), or create trailing vines up to 40 feet long by using its aerial roots to climb the trees. 

Whether they climb high or spread across the forest floor, these plants will flower in their natural environment. Once pollinated by insects crawling by and across them, certain Pothos plants like the “Money Plant or Golden Pothos” produce berries for surrounding wildlife to eat and naturally spread the seeds. 

While Pothos is mostly an indoor houseplant, it can be planted outdoors in warmer and tropical climates. 

Pro-tip: Before buying a Pothos plant, read your state and county's local guidance if you want to plant your Devil’s Ivy outside as in some areas, like Hawaii, it is now considered an invasive species. 

If you’re unsure of your local laws, keep your Pothos plant as an indoor houseplant so it doesn’t have the opportunity to run amok outside by smothering trees or introducing toxins (calcium oxalate) to wildlife. Due to its fast growth and hardiness, Epipremnum has become widespread across the tropics and will thrive just as much in the safety of your home.

The Epipremnum, primarily the species Epipremnum aureum, is nicknamed “Pothos” because it was originally classified in the Pothos genus based on its juvenile form. Around 1908, further study of non-sterile plants as they grew showed that “Pothos” lacked common characteristics with the 65 other plants in the “Pothos” genus. It was then reclassified based on its adult form as “Scindapsus aureum.” 

Botanists found that the “Pothos” plant’s flowers are closer in appearance to Epipremnum pinnatum’s than to other Scindapsus species, leading to the final classification of Epipremnum aureum for the Pothos plant we know and love today. 

Fun Fact: “Epipremnum aureum” was once called “Epipremnum pinnatum aureum” as some botanists considered it a cultivar of “Epipremnum pinnatum.” The debate is now officially over and they are considered separate and independent species. 

Pothos is versatile, growing as a scrambler, in a hanging basket, or as a climber to adapt to your style, and beginner-friendly because it only requires weekly watering and tolerates lower light levels and temperatures. 

Fun Fact: Pothos gained the nickname “Devil’s Ivy" because it is very difficult to kill!

Re-pot your pothos with fresh potting mix every 1-2 years in a pot one size larger (about 1-2 inches larger in diameter) once you see roots blocking or going through the drainage holes, or the plant appears to droop even after being watered. 

Aerial roots tend to cling to surfaces, so repotting while they’re in active growth in the Spring months and gradually increasing the pot size makes adaptation to their new home easier. 

Pro Tip: Remember to inspect the roots for root rot or discoloration whenever you repot your plants. You can also trim the roots to better fit in their pot.

Water at least once a week and allow the top 1-2 inches of soil to dry out between waterings, as Epipremnum is susceptible to root rot if left in moist or soggy potting mix. When the top few inches feel dry when you stick your finger into the pot, give your Pothos a good soak and add water until it drains from the pot's drainage holes. This means the potting mix is thoroughly moistened. 

In winter, water less frequently, at least once every 2 weeks. The temperatures are cooler, and there is less light, so the plant grows more slowly and may enter dormancy so it will need less water. 

Pro-tip: If you’re unsure whether the soil feels dry enough, look for leaves to start to droop or curl This is a sign your Pothos is dehydrated.

Pothos prefer to be in bright, indirect sunlight for at least 4-6 hours a day, and though they can tolerate lower light conditions in the shade, you may notice slowed growth. Place by a window that receives no direct sun throughout the day, or by a window with light filtered by a gauze curtain or shade cloth. These plants are also hardy enough to survive on fluorescent lighting in office spaces, classrooms, or bedrooms. 

Coloring on “Golden”, “Marble”, or “Neon” Pothos will be most vibrant with bright natural light, which can be found by windows in East or west-facing rooms. Long periods in dim lighting can lead to loss of variegation, as the plants become greener due to increased chlorophyll production to compensate.

Pro-Tip: If your plant loses its variegation, move it to a brighter spot and the variegation should return. Avoid prolonged exposure to direct sunlight, especially in the afternoon, to prevent leaf burning.

Epipremnum prefers a humidity range of 40-60%. To monitor and maintain humidity levels, try a humidifier with a built-in humidistat in the room. Plant groupings, a pebble tray with water under the pot, or naturally humid rooms like the kitchen or bathroom can also increase humidity.

Pothos are from tropical regions but readily acclimate to typical home conditions of 60-85°F (15-30 °C), and can survive in temperatures as low as 50°F (10 °C). 

Pro-tip: Make sure your “Silver Ivy” is not placed near any vents or fans to help maintain a constant temperature.

If your Pothos’s leaves are changing color, curling, or drooping, this can be your first indication of suboptimal growth conditions. Here are some of the most common issues so your heart-shaped leaves can receive the right kind of love.

While this is not an immediate health issue, if your plant looks leggy or sparse, grab some sterile shears and trim it wherever you would like along the vine. 

Pothos are both hardy and opportunistic plants, so don’t be afraid to cut the vines back by cutting a node close to the crown, leaving at least 2 leaf nodes. This maintains a more shrubby appearance and promotes new growth. You can also use floral pins to pin a vine to the soil, which will promote more growth from the base. 

A leggy appearance may also indicate the Pothos needs more light to help provide energy for new vine growth.

If the leaves are turning yellow and the stems appear black, try reducing watering frequency. Your Pothos may also start dropping leaves if it's overwatered. Check the top few inches of your potting mix to make sure it isn’t waterlogged. 

As this aroid matures, older leaves also naturally start to turn yellow. Once there are no more green parts of the leaf, it can be pruned to promote new growth. If it's a single leaf yellowing at a time, it’s more likely to be age. If the plant as a whole is turning yellow, reduce watering frequency and check for bacterial or fungal growth. 

If the leaves are curling inwards, shriveling, turning brown, or drooping, check if the soil is too dry. Water the soil until it feels damp but not wet, and water begins draining from the bottom of the pot. If the leaves do not recover, prune them. 

If the leaves start to appear more green, the issue is dim lighting and the plant needs to be moved closer to a window with brighter lighting. Variegated Epipremnums like the “Manjula Compacta” or “Marble Queen” will become greener as they produce more chlorophyll, increasing their efficiency at absorbing light to compensate for decreased availability. 

For pale leaves, the issue is too much direct light, which causes the leaf color to fade because it reduces chlorophyll production as a protective mechanism. Move the plant out of direct sunlight or into the shade, and it should regain its original coloring.

Loss of color or brown spots along the edges that progressively worsen, and drooping leaves are signs of leaf burn. Lighter colored varieties, like the “Neon” are more susceptible to leaf burn compared to darker cultivars like the “Cebu Blue” because they have less chlorophyll. 

Pothos like the “Marble Queen” and “Pearls and Jade” naturally have pale cream or white edges and should be monitored for any brown spots or drooping, as it will be harder to tell if they have become paler. 

If you notice these signs, try:

1. Moving the pot to another position with only indirect light exposure or into the shade.

2. Pruning any leaves that appear mostly brown/badly damaged to help the plant focus on new growth.

3. Ensuring the soil remains adequately watered.

Brown crispy leaves may also be due to low humidity. Check that your room’s humidity is between 40% and 60%, and your Pothos is not next to a vent, heater, or fan.

Pothos have aerial roots that are prone to root rot if left in soggy soil where water fills the air pockets in the pot, promoting fungal and bacterial growth. Black spots on the leaves or vines, collapsed or wilted appearing vines, and a foul smell will be your first indications of root rot. 

If you suspect root rot, remove your plant from the pot and follow the steps below:

1. Trim any rotting or dead roots with sharp, sanitized shears. If it is discolored, smells or feels squishy, trim. 

2. Treat the roots with a hydrogen peroxide solution (3 parts water to 1 part peroxide) or plant-safe fungicide to make sure all bacteria and other potential threats are washed away. 

3.  Re-pot the Pothos in new well-draining potting mix, ensuring the pot has holes in the bottom for proper drainage.

For “Epipremnum”, a well-draining, aerated potting mix with perlite, orchid bark, and other chunky mediums is an excellent choice. Our signature blend, Dirt Bag, is specifically mixed for aroids like these to ensure optimal soil quality and promote growth.

A balanced liquid fertilizer, applied at least once a month during the growing season in Spring and Summer, will keep your Pothos well-fed. Dilute to half-strength, or stop fertilizing, in the fall and winter as the plant heads into dormancy.

Epipremnum aureum ‘Golden Pothos’
A classic variety with heart-shaped green leaves streaked in golden yellow. It’s fast-growing, super forgiving, and ideal for shelves, hanging baskets, or climbing poles. A go-to starter plant for anyone new to indoor gardening.

Epipremnum aureum ‘Marble Queen’
This white and green variegated variety features marbled patterns across each leaf. It grows slightly slower than Golden Pothos but thrives in bright, indirect light. Its high-contrast coloring makes it a standout in any plant collection.

Epipremnum pinnatum ‘Cebu Blue’ 
Cebu Blue is a metallic-toned variety with silvery-blue, elongated leaves. As it matures, it can develop fenestrations (natural splits), especially when climbing. A collector favorite for its unique color and refined appearance.

Epipremnum aureum ‘Neon Pothos’
Known for its bright, chartreuse-green leaves, Neon Pothos brings a bold, electric pop to any plant shelf. It thrives in moderate to bright indirect light and grows quickly with minimal care. Great for adding contrast to darker foliage.

Epipremnum aureum ‘Jade’
This solid green variety has a deep, rich tone and is especially tolerant of lower-light conditions. While less flashy than variegated types, Jade is one of the most durable and consistent growers, perfect for offices or low-light corners.

Epipremnum pinnatum ‘Albo-Variegata’ 
This rare pinnatum cultivar features bold white marbling across long, narrow leaves that develop deep splits over time. It grows best with vertical support and lots of indirect light. A high-impact climbing plant for experienced growers.