Houseplant Pest Control 101: How to Identify, Treat & Prevent Common Pests

What they are: Tiny, sap-sucking arachnids that create thin webs beneath leaves and stems.

How to ID: Look for yellowing, speckled leaves and fine webbing. Use a magnifying glass—these mites are tiny and often off-white or black.

First treatment to try: Neem oil spray
Why it works: Neem oil coats the mites and eggs, disrupting their ability to breathe and reproduce.

What they are: Slender insects that pierce plant cells and drain sap.

How to ID: Look for silvery streaks, distorted leaves, and slow-moving bugs on leaf tops or undersides. They’re tiny—about 2mm—and often off-white or black.

First treatment to try: Insecticidal soap or a soil drench + foliar spray
Why it works: Soap suffocates soft-bodied adults; soil drenches target larvae.

What they are: Small, soft-bodied bugs covered in a white, cottony substance. They group at leaf joints and along stems.

How to ID: White, fuzzy clusters on leaves and stems. Look for wilting or yellowing as they feed on plant sap.

First treatment to try: Cotton swab dipped in alcohol + neem oil follow-up
Why it works: Alcohol breaks down their waxy coating; neem oil interrupts their life cycle.

What they are: Hard- or soft-bodied insects that resemble bumps or shells attached to leaves or stems.

How to ID: Brown or tan bumps that don’t brush off easily. May leave behind a sticky residue (honeydew).

First treatment to try: Manual removal with alcohol + horticultural oil
Why it works: Scraping removes the adult insects; oil smothers the next generation.

What they are: Pear-shaped bugs that come in green, black, pink, or white. They multiply fast and spread easily.

How to ID: Clusters on new growth, curled or yellowing leaves, and sticky residue. Look for the signature twin “tailpipes” on their behinds.

First treatment to try: Spray with insecticidal soap or hose them off outside
Why it works: Soft-bodied aphids are easily suffocated and dislodged.

Move any affected plants away from your other houseplants. Pests spread fast—and isolating now can save you a bigger headache later.

• Why this matters: Most pests can crawl or fly to nearby plants.

• What to check: Undersides of leaves, stem joints, and soil surface.

🧴 Insecticidal Soap

How it works: Penetrates soft insect exteriors and suffocates them.
Best for: Aphids, spider mites, mealybugs
Why use it: Gentle, effective, and safe indoors. Great first step for minor infestations.

🛢️ Neem Oil

How it works: Coats bugs and eggs, disrupting feeding and reproduction.
Best for: Spider mites, thrips, mealybugs
Why use it: Organic and preventive when used regularly. Reapply weekly for best results.

🔥 Horticultural Oil

How it works: Smothers all life stages of pests (eggs, nymphs, adults).
Best for: Scale, spider mites
Why use it: Works on contact and can coat hard-to-reach areas.

🍶 Rubbing Alcohol (Spot Treatment)

How it works: Dissolves the waxy coating of pests like mealybugs and scale.
Best for: Manual removal of small infestations
Why use it: Cheap, targeted, and easy to apply with cotton swabs.

🌊 Soil Drench

How it works: Treats pests living in the soil like thrips larvae.
Best for: Thrips, fungus gnats (when paired with sticky traps)
Why use it: Gets to the root of the problem—literally.

Always follow instructions on the label—but here are a few universal best practices:

• Treat both sides of the leaves

• Get into stem joints and undersides

• For soil treatments, saturate evenly

• Repeat every 5–7 days until the problem is gone

Keep your eye out for recurring symptoms like leaf spotting, webbing, or slow growth.

Prevention tips:

• Quarantine new plants before introducing them to your collection

• Wipe leaves regularly to catch problems early

• Avoid overwatering and poor airflow

• Rotate in preventative sprays like neem oil weekly

Consider beneficial insects like ladybugs if you're dealing with persistent pests (especially outdoors or in greenhouses).